Grand Canyon Trip Report (a long one)

Grand Canyon is one of the greatest natural wonders in the world. Visiting Grand Canyon was always in my dream. In May 1995, we flew from New York and visited Grand Canyon for the first time. We only appreciated it on the rim and didn't hike inside the canyon. But its beauty and mystery still haunted me for very long time after our first visit. I knew we would come back someday.

In one morning, we had our breakfast picnic at the edge of East Rim after catching sunrise. While we were enjoying the food and the scenery, we suddenly heard some noises from the steep bushes down below. At first, I thought it was some kind of animal. A few minutes later, I saw some dusty people with mustaches all over their faces carrying huge backpacks emerged slowly from the trail. We watched them with all due respects. Joe asked me, "Do you want to be one of them someday?" Without giving it a second thought, I said, "No way". It was just way beyond my physical ability.

 However, sometime down the road, I felt myself changed. We have been into hiking and backpacking trips these years. Step by step, I built up my confidence. The scene that I saw that morning in Grand Canyon came out to haunt me again. I started to dream about being one of them...

I began to plan the Grand Canyon excursion in early 1999. To secure a permit, hikers need to apply for it five months ahead. I reserved a permit for the Labor Day weekend last year. We took it very seriously and did lots of hiking and backpacking drills. However, we had to abort our plan because the flesh flood washed away part of the trail. You could imagine how disappointed we were.

On May 1st this year, I again reserved a permit for 4 for the Labor Day weekend. The plan would be to hike down from North Rim and come up from South Rim. The route we were going to use were North Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Trail, also called the Corridor Trail. The trail mainly cuts through the Bright Angel Canyon, a canyon inside canyon. The total mileage would be around 24 miles with over 10,000 feet gains/losses. We planned to cover it in 3 days. By all means, it would be the most difficult and strenuous hike for me.

In the evening of Aug. 30, Joe and I flew to Las Vegas. Peter and Johnny met us there. In the early morning of Sep. 1, we drove from Las Vegas to South Rim. We parked the car by Bright Angel Trailhead and looked around the Grand Canyon. It had been five years now ... Although second time seeing the Canyon, I still felt awe striking. I looked at the North Rim across us, it was only 10 air miles away. However, to reach North Rim, you need five hours by driving or days by hiking. We looked down at the Bright Angel Trail picturing ourselves coming back up from here three days later.

We had our last civilized meal at the Bright Angel Lodge. We then took the transcanyon shuttle bus and arrived at North Rim at 6pm. The rain on our way worried me a little. I could not imagine the mess of backpacking in the rain. That night we camped on North Rim. It was colder than we thought. We set up a big campfire to keep ourselves warm and had had a good night sleep.

On Sep. 2, it was a sunny day. We got up at 6am and left the camp before 8am. This day, we planned to hike down North Kaibab Trail with descend of over 4000 feet (from 8250 feet to 4080 feet) and camp at the Cottonwood campground. With full set of gear and three-day food supply and water, each of us carried a heavy backpack. I thought my backpack weighted 40 pounds and the boys' over 50 pounds each.

The first 4.7 miles of the trail from trailhead to Roaring Spring was very steep with 3000 feet drop. With a heavy backpack, it gave lots of pressure on the knees. Using two walking sticks and knee guards definitely helped with the knees. The trail was quite uneven probably because of the washing by the rain and the heavy usage by mules. There was unpleasant smell from the mule dumps too. The constant need to watch out for our steps made the hike more strenuous. But the scenery was breathtaking. We frequently stopped for photos. Walking on the trail that was built mostly upon the cliff, we couldn't imagine how they built a trail like this. By noon, we reached Roaring Spring. We took a long lunch break and a nap under the shade. The trail was not as terribly hot as I imagined before the hike. I was very surprised to see so many creeks and trees inside the canyon. It was full of life and quite a contrast to the impression we got from the rim.

From Roaring Spring to Cottonwood Camp, the downhill was much gentler and easier. Since we took a long break, by the time we arrived, the campground was almost full. We still managed to find a site close to the creek but without shade.

We met a group of people in their golden ages doing the same hike with us. These people always gave me great inspirations. We met another two people doing intensive training for the Eagle Challenge. They rode bike 90 miles from Flagstaff to South Rim in the morning, and then ran 17 miles from South Rim to Cottonwood Camp. After a short break, they were going to run back to South Rim and ride bikes back to Flagstaff all in one day. By no means I could compare with these people. But the most important thing was that I was also challenging myself.

It was new moon period. Without any city lights, the star was very bright. We could see the Milky Way clearly. It was much warmer than the previous night. The second day hike would be the easiest section. We only needed to hike 7.6 miles with 1600 feet drop. We decided no need to leave too early.

On Sep. 3, we woke up at 7am and left campground by 8am. Since it was still early, plus after Ribbon Falls, the trail passed though a 1200-foot deep inner gorge called the Box, we could walk mostly in the shade. There was no more mule dumps on this part of the trail. These all made the hike easiest and the most pleasant. The trail follows the Bright Angel Creek all the way to the Bright Angel Camp. After that, the creek meets the Colorado River. By noon, we arrived at Phatom Ranch. Surprisingly, there was air-condition and ice cold drink served. We could get all the "luxury" in the backcountry except ice cream. We were told that all supplies were carried down by the mules. Although they served civilized meals, we decided to eat our camp food to complete our backcountry adventure.

The Bright Angel Campground was much larger than Cottonwood Campground. After lunch and a nap, we took a 2-mile loop hike along Colorado River, crossing the two bridges in between, Silver Bridge and Black Bridge. The hike was very beautiful and much easier without backpack.

The night at Bright Angel was hot, over 80F. We attended the ranger's campfire program and listened to some stories about the trail. We then had some cold drink at the Ranch. The last day would be the most difficult day. It was going to be 9.3 miles and over 4000 feet gains. Everyone suggested us to start early to avoid the heat. We decided to get up at 4:30am and leave at the sunrise. We turned in early at 10pm.

On Sep. 4, I got up just before the alarm clock went off. I was never an early bird. But at this critical moment, I didn't hesitate. We packed up our stuff at a record speed. But it was still dark. We ate some breakfast and waited for the sunrise. Half of the campground had already been up. People all respected the early start rule for hiking in the Canyon.

At 5:50am, we left the campground and started the last and most difficult part of our journey. The first half (4.8 miles) of the last-day hike from the River to Indian Garden was rather easy with only 1000 feet gains. The very last part (4.5 miles) after Indian Garden was the most painful one with over 3000 feet gains. I pronounced that if I could arrive at South Rim by 3pm, that was normal speed. Any time later than that, I was getting old. Peter said that he would be glad if I could make it by 4pm.

At first, we hiked along the river on the Bright Angel Trail with slight up and downs. After about three quarter miles, we turned away from the river and started to climb up. It was the last day and I was already tired. I felt my backpack heavier and heavier and I had to make big effort for each step. It was only beginning. I was afraid that I would never make to the top or I would not fulfill my dream if I needed help. While I struggled for each step, a 70-year old gentleman passed me with steady pace that amazed me. The way he climbed up the hill by leaning forward caught my attention. I adjusted my backpack and put more weight on my shoulder. When I leaned forward, more weight settled on my back and released some weight from my hip. Now I could walk up the hill easier.

The sun started to light up the Canyon into golden color. It was so beautiful and so peaceful. The higher we hiked up, the more spectacular the view. You could only experienced this by hiking inside the Canyon. The breathtaking scenes made every step worth the efforts.

 By around 8:40am, we arrived at Indian Garden. We had finished half of the distance for the last day. My average speed was 1.5 miles per hour on these 4.8 miles.

After Indian Garden, the trail was much steeper. Looking ahead, we could see the trail like a zigzagging snake hanging on the canyon wall. It was only 4.5 miles to the rim, but we need to climb over 3000 feet. It was getting hotter. I was walking slower and slower and taking more breaks. Peter couldn't stand my slow speed and ran ahead and waited for us at the every 1.5-mile rest house. Johnny and Joe had been around all the time and gave me emotional supports. I stopped frequently to eat some salty food and drink lots of water. My sweat soaked my T-shirt and it never got dry. Following the advice, I constantly soaked my cap with water, but it got completely dry usually after 15 minutes. The sharp elevation gains and heat sucked out all my energy. I made every 1.5 miles as my small milestones to the top.

At 12:20pm, I started the last part of my journey. I knew it was only 1.5 miles, but another 1100 feet to climb. The last part of the trail was totally exposed under the sun. It was so hot and I was totally exhausted. It took all my strength to move each step. At one moment, I was so suffered that I wanted to cry. A young man offered to help me with the backpack, but I refused. If I accepted the help, I wouldn't be able to complete my dream. I knew I could do it. It didn't matter how slow I was. The most important thing was that I made it on my own. At 1:50pm, I finally made it back to South Rim. It took me one and a half hour to finish the last 1.5 miles. But I did it all by myself.

 The ranger who was checking on hikers welcomed us with respects. The people from the tour buses treated us as heroes and asked all kinds of questions. They couldn't imagine how we could walk all the way from the other side of the Canyon. Me neither. But we all made it. I didn't cry at the most suffered moment down the trail, but now my eyes were full of tears hidden behind the sunglasses.

I was extremely pleased to see the car. We stopped at the Mather Point and took a last look at the Grand Canyon and took a long stare at the zigzag Bright Angel Canyon that we had been hiking for the past three days. We could see the Colorado River and the Bright Angel Camp that we had been to. I could still remember the tired and painful moments, but never one moment I regretted my choice. I didn't know how my teammates felt, but it was sure an achievement and a lifetime experience to me.

We stopped at the Amphitheater to watch the Grand Canyon movie and experience the Canyon one more time. We then drove back to Las Vegas. It was 9pm when we got there. We went for a buffet. But I was too tired and hungry to eat. Peter and Johnny left in the morning flight on Sep. 5. Joe and I rested most of the day and visited some new casinos and took the evening flight home. My whole body still felt sore. That concluded our Grand Canyon excursion. Someday, we may do it again!

Thanks for sharing our experiences.

Janet